Eating in Medellín

II Forno

Set in the middle of the zona rosa, this open-air Italian restaurant doesn't do gimmicks or discounts, just hearty food at a fair price. It serves pizza and sandwiches, lasagna and ravioli, and even steak. It may not be gourmet, but at this price, who cares?

Café colombo

On the top floor of the building also housing the Centro Colombo Americano, this minimalist spot serves up light meals along with stunning views of the city and mountains. Go for the set meal (COP$15,500), which changes weekly, or try the crepes, pasta, steak or trout. Its 10th-floor outdoor terrace is a great spot for cocktails early in the evening.

Restaurante Hatoviejo

A favorite of Medellín's carnivores, this is the best place in the center for regional dishes such as plato montañero, an artery-clogging conglomeration of ground beef, eggs and fried pork skin.

Los Toldos

Elderly waiters wear traditional costumes and old-style Colombian folk music plays on the stereo at this typical paisa place. Go for the daily special, about COP$15,000, or indulge in a hearty bandeja paisa (paisa tray)

Bahia Mar

This top notch seafood place offers mariscos in a Caribbean setting. Merengue plays on the stereo, and the signature dish is langostino Providencia (Providencia-style king prawns). The tables are laid out simply with blue tablecloths on top of white. They also do enormous shrimp cocktails and light platters of seafood crepes. A top choice for seafood in Medellín.

II Castello

For authentic, top-quality Italian food, look no further than Il Castello. Try the fettucine trento (lobster served with a brandy and cream sauce), or the many pastas, raviolis and pizzas. It has an exceptional wine list; you’ll imbibe your drop of red in large balloon glasses. Tucked just off Calle 10, you’ll spot the place by the many expensive cars parked out front.

Thaico

Don’t expect chopsticks or even spicy food here, at what is one of the very few Thai joints in Colombia. Still, the food’s not bad, especially before 7pm, when all meals are half-price and cocktails are three-for-one (normally COP$12,000 to COP$15,000 each). Great subdued, relaxed atmosphere, and a prime spot for a long, liquid lunch.

Alex Carne de Res

For a decent budget steak, Alex can’t be beat. The building is roofed in palm thatch and there’s salsa on the stereo. On Sunday it offers many typical regional platters. You’ll find it below the highway overpass near the El Poblado metro station, opposite CC Monterrey.

Restaurante Mango Maduro

Up an unassuming flight of stairs you'll find this festive little restaurant, which is popular with artists and intellectuals. Works by local painters adorn the orange walls, and the food, while simple, generally has an imaginative twist on paisa classics.

Salón Versalles

Famous for its scrumptious, Argentine-style empanadas, this Medellín classic may appear unassuming, but regularly attracts the city's movers and shakers. Meals are good if a little pricey for what you get.

La Provinvcia

Located inside the Ovieda shopping mall, this upscale restaurant looks bland but it's regularly rated one of the city's top choices, with a menu inspired by both Mediterranean and classic French cuisines

Flor de Canela

Lots of local office workers eat here. It does a good set meal, with specials like pumpkin soup, spaghetti bolognese and sometimes traditional dishes like ajiaco (a typical Bogotá stew).

Pasilú

This gourmet budget option is right next to the footbridge by the metro station. It does a great set meal, and also sandwiches any time of day. Serves wine and beer.

Tramezzini

This place looks like all the other casual, upmarket joints around Parque Lleras, but it is often cited as the best Italian restaurant in Medellín

Restaurante Vegetarian Govinda's

For decent vegetarian cuisine served by friendly Hari Krishnas, try this bright, upstairs restaurant near the Museo de Antioquia.

Verdeo

You don't have to be a vegetarian to enjoy the creative dishes on offer at this groovy Poblado co-operative. Take your pick from delicious vegetarian shawarma, burgers, ravioli and salads. The attached grocers is a great place to pick up organic veggies, tofu and other products not found in local supermarkets

Tabun

This atmospheric Poblado eatery is popular with Medellín foodies for its generous portions of flavorful Middle Eastern classics. The grilled meats are superb as is the platter of salads served with flatbread baked fresh right in the dining area. On weekends there are sometimes belly-dancing performances

Mondongos

Medellín families flock to this unremarkable-looking eatery to fill up on delicious Sopa de Mondongo (tripe soup). It is served with avocado, banana, lemon and arepas (corn cakes), which are added/dunked in the bowl according to each diner's personal ritual. For the full experience, come for Sunday lunch. There is another branch on La 70

La Casa De Beto

More than a little out of place in chic Poblado, Beto's is a no-nonsense diner that serves up hearty plates of simple paisa food at budget prices. The set lunch menu (COP$7500) includes soup, meat, sides, salad and a drink. Also prepares filling breakfasts

Govinda's

Part restaurant, part cultural center, Govinda's has a great-value vegetarian buffet. Choose from a wide range of soups, soy-based mains, salads and vegetable sides. If you arrive late you will probably be limited to the fast-food menu.

Carmen

Fine dining has finally arrived in Medellín, and leading the charge is Carmen. Run by an American-Colombian couple, both of whom are cordon bleu chefs, Carmen prepares sophisticated international cuisine with a heavy Californian influence. The restaurant itself is made up of distinct dining zones – an intimate dining room overlooking the open kitchen, a conservatory and charming rear patio. The English-speaking waiters can offer recommendations to accompany your meal from the extensive wine list. Reservations are essential.

Bahia Mar

This top-notch seafood place offers mariscos (seafood) in an unpretentious Caribbean setting. The signature dish is langostino Providencia (Providencia-style king prawns) but it also does enormous shrimp cocktails and light platters of seafood crepes. A top choice for seafood in Medellín.

Cafe Le Bón

One of Medellín’s few real coffee shops, Le Bon would not be out of place in a funky arts neighborhood in any North American city. Choose from 14 types of espresso and 10 of cappuccino. It’s also a good spot for breakfast (COP$7000 to COP$15,000), and serves lunch and snacks throughout the day, including soup, salads, and both sweet and savory crepes. In the evening the stereo stays leashed, making it a quiet spot for a cocktail or a beer.

Discovery

Perched on the edge of the northern foothills in the Las Palmas district, Discovery has amazing views, and even better food. The specialty is seafood – try the cazuela de mariscos al coco (seafood stew with coconut, COP$35,000), or the parrilla mixta (mixed grill, COP$36,000). There’s live music on Friday and Saturday night.

Carulla

This supermarket is right next to CC Oviedo. It has a great salad bar (including fruit salad) with selections sold by weight. A convenient place to sample Colombia's many wonderful tropical fruits. It has sandwiches and hot food, too